So the sun has been shinning, I finally renewed my insurance which I had been dragging out and got the bike out of the shed again. Now the last thing to do the oil change.
The Oil change on a V-Strom 650 is a very straight forward enterprise, you don't need a torque wrench but if you want to be exact in your tightening of the bolts here is a link to the post on the Stromtrooper forum (It also includes the table for the 1000).
V-Strom Bolt Torque Table
Now what you will need the following, one oil filter (needed every second oil change every 6000-10000km depending on Dino oil or synthetic), a couple wrenches more if you have a Skid Plate mounted, Three Cans of 10W40 Oil (three will cover all you need even with a filter change) and finally a 68mm filter Wrench which you can fit on your driver.
Cost of these items: Filter 18.90$ CDN, Oil 9.99 per liter, Filter Wrench 15.99.
So presuming you have all the tools an oil and filter change will run you about 48.87$ CDN before taxes. Without filter more like 19.98$ CDN since you will probably have a little oil kicking around and wont need to replace the oil in the Filter.
Now on the none one time items you will need Gloves for your little hands, some rags cloth or shop towel and a funnel. The funnel makes getting the oil in easier but also putting the old oil into the cans is easier that way and shops will take it without debate that way.
The WD-40 and Chain bar oil is for the Chain which should be done too but only after you warmed up the chain with riding around a little unless your chain is dry as hell then oil it a little before and give it a good oiling after the ride.
Now the next once you have assembled all your goodies is to get the work area ready.
In my case that meant removing the Skid Plate and making sure I didn't lose anything and lining my goodies up properly. And popping the bike on the centre stand; the side stand works too but not as well and you will have to right while draining. Also it recommended to rock the bike a little to get all the oil out towards the end of draining it. Just don't create a mess.
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NO SKID PLATE! |
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Rear Skid plate mount. |
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Front Skid Plate Mount. |
Next you will be removing the Drain Plug first (reduces the mess). You will already have your oil pan under the plug at the time and there you go. Loosen the bolt first with a wrench and then you hand turn the rest with a gloved hand reduces the amount of oil your tool and your hand has to deal with.
Now once the draining has started let it drain to a light dribble.
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Pan in Place CHECK! |
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Look at it go! |
Now once the Oil flow slows down you will want to move the pan forward so you can catch the oil that comes out when you remove the filter (make sure your pan reaches both spots or get a second one now). This of course isn't necessary if you don't want to replace the filter.
Then you place your Filter wrench on the filter and twist it off a again a gloved hand may come in handy.The drain plug will dribble for a while so don't think it will be over quickly.
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No Filter! |
Now next replace the drain plug so that the new oil wont run out and put the new filter on don't over torque but make sure it wont come loose while riding. Now once the filter and plug are back in place you can start putting the new oil into the engine.
You will do this as follows fill it up at first until you start seeing oil around the middle of the oil window and then stop and start the bike to move the oil around a bit. Then stop it and wait couple minutes if its a little low add a little extra until you see it slightly under the F. (I rather under fill a little then over fill oil.)
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The Oil can after the Fill Up. |
Put the Skid Plate back on if you have one and then you are done.
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Back on and cleaned. |
Now remember to oil the chain after the first little bit of riding!
Remember to oil on the inside of the chain so that the sprockets and the chain gets properly lubricated.